The Game Bird, London Review

The Game Bird can be found inside The Stafford Hotel in the heart of London’s St James. The Game Bird is a contemporary tale about relaxed, informal dining any time of the day. A place to eat, drink and socialise, the focus is on modern British comfort cooking executed with style and panache, all wrapped in a seductive ambience that oozes cool sophistication.

The philosophy at The Game Bird is simple - dedicated to following the seasons and supporting local artisans including award-winning family owned farms, Executive Chef, James Durrant has created a ‘theatre of the senses’ menu based on uncomplicated excellence: local, seasonal produce sits alongside time honoured British classics.

Centre of attention are the traditional handcrafted trolleys that overflow with signature dishes that both surprise and delight and include meat & game, own smoked & cured, pies, puddings & stews and a mouth-watering Sunday Lunch Roast served with all the trimmings.

In a setting reminiscent of an exclusive private members club, a heady mix of classic British design captivates and enchants while intimate dining booths whisper seduction against a backdrop of pale blue walls and specially commissioned artwork from some of the country’s leading young British artists.

“The fish was cooked perfectly, and the twist with the burnt butter hollandaise was a real delight.”

Upon arrival we were warmly greeted and seated, we decided to start the evening with an aperitif, and both opted for a glass of the Billecard-Salmon Brut Rosé, which set the tone of what was to be an impeccable meal. The Champagne went down very nicely indeed whilst we made our choices.

To begin our evening, I chose to start with the Portland crab and avocado salad with spiced brown crab mayonnaise. This dish was so delicate in flavour, with the sweet crab meat marrying perfectly with the creaminess of the avocado and mayonnaise. It was simply delightful. My partner chose the native lobster and Morecambe Bay shrimp cocktail, served with paprika gem lettuce. Another beautiful choice which was beautifully presented and tasted divine.

For our main courses, I ordered the whole grilled Dover sole with burnt butter hollandaise, capers and raisins. The fish was cooked perfectly, and the twist with the burnt butter hollandaise was a real delight. The addition of raisins made for a burst of sweetness cutting through the richness of the dish. My partner ordered the 8oz grass fed British fillet served with fries and béarnaise sauce. Again, the fillet was faultless, the most tender, tastiest meat one could wish for.

For our sides, we ordered the hand cut chips which worked wonderfully with the filet, the buttered spinach which was wonderfully fresh tasting and packed wigth flavour, and finally the Peas à la Française to share.

To accompany our meal, we chose a bottle of the 2010, Clos Saint-Vincent Saint-Émilion Grand Cru, France, A superb choice from Saint Emilion with a wonderfully long liqourice aftertaste which worked well with our choices.

For dessert, I enjoyed the Eton mess with blackberries and Jersey cream, my partner opted for the vanilla crème brûlée and fig jam. They both provided the most indulgent end to what had been a delightful dining experience.

The Game Bird really is a special restaurant, we highly recommend that you visit, and we cannot wait to return in the future.