Foxtrot Oscar, London Review

Foxtrot Oscar has a long history, having been founded in 1980 by old Etonian Michael Proudlock. It served raffish clients from right across Sloane Square who at first couldn’t help the ”f’nar f’nar” at the name, and who felt instantly at home in this club that wasn’t really a club.

Gordon Ramsay Holdings walked through the door in 2006 or so, and snapped it up for a song. In came the decorators, a Ramsay chef, a new menu and all new waiting staff. Still at the helm though, was Michael Proudlock, now Restaurant Director instead of owner, but still there holding the fort.

Foxtrot Oscar is a warm, bistro-esque type place with bare floors, bare wood tables and warm painted walls. The lighting is soft and unassuming, but bright enough to see. It’s an intimate atmosphere, but also light and airy.

We were seated quickly and given menus. The waiter was attentive without being overbearing. I asked for suggestions which were given, showing attention to detail that I like.

To begin we had creamed cauliflower soup with roasted apple and walnuts, and a beetroot salad. The soup was served hot and tasted lovely, the apple flavour was subtle but nice, the walnuts were somehow still crunchy despite being submerged in liquid. The beetroot salad was fresh, bright and crisp, just the way we like it.

"Overall, the experience was a pleasant one"

For our main course was roasted squash risotto with aged parmesan and toasted pumpkin seeds, and a chargrilled Dedham Vale porterhouse steak with honey roasted parsnips and watercress. As always we had a side, this time it was roasted winter potatoes with parsley and lemon.

The risotto was cooked perfectly, again, was hot, the rice done to a tee, with the parmesan giving it a nice, creamy consistency. The porterhouse was cooked to perfection too. It was bright pink in the middle and succulent. You could push down with the fork and watch the juices escaping onto the plate. Heaven. The parsnips were crunchy on the outside but soft on the inside, with just the right amount of honey on the glaze. Lemon on roast potatoes was a new one on me, but it worked well. They were the ideal accompaniment to the meal.

Dessert was chocolate tart with orange sorbet, and apple and blackberry crumble, with vanilla custard. We simply couldn’t resist this English favourite, and we weren’t disappointed. The chocolate tart was sweet, firm, and the pastry base flaked on every bite. The crumble was hot, and nicely balanced between sweet and tart. The crumble was light and crunchy and was so nice, we almost ordered another.

We also enjoyed a Chateau Bauduc Rose from Bordeaux with our dinner. For once we could buy it by the glass, but we needn’t have worried, as it was delicious. It was sweet, but not too sweet and worked well with all the flavours we had with our meal. We of course ended our meal with a coffee, which was rich, dark and hot.

The staff were busy, but not rushed, efficient but not frenetic. They seemed knowledgeable and capable and when I had asked for suggestions, they were given with confidence. They are obviously well trained, as you would expect from a GRH restaurant.

Everything seemed just right with our meal. The ambience was just right, the speed at which we were attended to was just right, the food was just right, and the bill was just right. At £129 for two with a bottle of wine, it’s about right for Chelsea, and pretty good for a Ramsay restaurant.

Overall, the experience was a pleasant one. We would definitely come here again when we are over this side of town.