The Seven Sins of Tetsu Yahagi |
Chef de Cuisine, Spago Beverly Hills |
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Tetsu Yahagi was born in a large fishing town of Fukuoka, Japan, on the northern shore of the Island Kyushu. He grew up on traditional fare of soba and ramen noodles and local fish. Tetsu fondly recalls the day his Dad told him of his work transfer and that the entire family would move to California. This was both exciting and frightening to a 12 year old boy as he and none of the family spoke English.
On his first day at Rosemont School in La Crescenta, he ate pizza and continued for a month because it was the only English word he could pronounce. Since his Mother had her hands full with 3 younger siblings, as the eldest Tetsu would do his part with lending a hand in the kitchen.
On a visit to a local bookstore he came across the cookbook, Wolfgang Puck Adventures in the Kitchen. To his excitement there were recipes for sashimi tuna and uni sauce. This was like home cooking! He coerced his Mom into making purchase. Page by page he taught himself to cook California Cuisine. |
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Years later before his family had to return to Japan, Tetsu's only wish was to dine at Spago Hollywood. As he and his family feasted on Pizzas, and Black Pepper crusted Tuna, he met Wolfgang, and asked him to sign the tattered book. This was a turning point up in his life.
Upon his return to Japan his only desire was to attend formal cooking school. He attended world renowned French cookery school, Tsuji, Tokyo, Japan. He graduated with honors, and was chosen by the Dean of Studies to travel to Burgundy, France. There he would train under Jacques Lameloise, of the 3 Star Michelin, Restaurant Lameloise. He learned classic French Cuisine and he worked as a rounds man, honing his skills on all stations in the kitchen.
Tetsu returned to Japan and began his work at Restaurant Tableaux, assisting Chef Akira Watanabe in creating a menu of French Cookery with International influences.
Tetsu was selected by Wolfgang Puck as an opening Sous Chef for Wolfgang Puck Bar and Grill in Tokyo. In preparation for the opening he trained with Lee Hefter for 6 months. Chef Hefter would later recruit Tetsu to join the team in the US, as a line cook at Spago Beverly Hills, where over the past 5 years he has risen up the ranks. In 2012, Wolfgang arranged for Tetsu to sharpen his talents in European kitchens, enabling him to stage at Arpège in Paris; Martin Berasategui in San Sebastian; and Fat Duck in Great Britain.
Now as Chef de Cuisine at Spago Beverly Hills, Tetsu comes full circle. It is a dream realized. In his new role Chef Tetsu's mission is to keep the history and tradition of Spago Beverly Hills vibrant; bringing his Japanese influence and sense of refinement to the cuisine. He uses Farmers Market ingredients to create exciting new menu selections. Under his elegant hand there is no doubt the legacy will continue. |
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| Wrath - What makes you angry about the hospitality industry?
I don’t have any anger towards this industry, as it’s my profession, what I’m most passionate about and has helped me succeed professionally. If anything, I’m thankful to be a part of it.
The one thing I do wish for this industry is an overall better quality of life for all that are a part of it. It is a tough industry and one that is hard to succeed in and I hope to one day be able to give back and do more for those who are looking to start a career in hospitality.
Greed - If all your food fantasies came true what would be on your Plate?
I hope to one day be able to make everything from scratch. That would mean growing my own vegetables, milling my own grains; raising my own pigs and chickens, making cheese, curing meats, brewing beer, wine, and on and on. I am taking small steps towards this goal - I currently make small amounts of salami, brew small batches of beer and grow a number of herbs at home.
Perhaps one day I will have my own farm - for now it’s a hobby but also a fantasy that all I can do is hope will someday come true.
Sloth - What do you do to unwind?
On my days off I spend a lot of my time with my dog. She is a small Chihuahua mix that we rescued. I take her out to the woods with me when I go foraging for wild herbs, on long walks or just relax on the couch and do nothing.
Pride - What are you most proud of?
I am most proud of the people I work with. The Spago team is the best ever.
I have my mentors that guide me to success as well as my sous chefs, cooks, dishwashers, and our entire front of the house team that are completely committed to making Spago the best it can be, and also challenge me every day.
Lust - Is there anything that you are still lusting to achieve?
I am constantly working towards becoming a better cook, chef and mentor. I never want to stop learning - there is so much to learn, even when I achieve something I’m looking for the next project or mystery to take on.
Envy - who are you most envious of?
I am most envious of the farmer lifestyle. I’ve always wanted to be more connected to nature - it’s a lifestyle I hope to one day live out. Then again, had I chosen to be a farmer in the beginning, I’d probably be wishing I was a chef.
Gluttony - have you ever over indulged?
Everytime I travel, I try to eat as much as I can. To be more precise, I try to eat everything that is there. When I don’t want to eat anymore, in my eyes, I’ll be dead as a chef.
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| We put the spotlight on the industry's most recognisable faces in our new interview segment "Seven Sins". If you want to know what inspires the industry's movers and shakers or what your favourite food loving celebrity likes to indulge in then you'll find it in their Seven Sins. |
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