The Seven Sins of Joel Kissin |
Owner of Boulestin |
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In 1986, Sir Terence Conran first met Joel Kissin, then running one of his favourite restaurants, Hilaire in South Kensington. Conran asked Kissin to join Simon Hopkinson, Hilaire's chef, to help them launch Bibendum in 1987.
Located in the newly refurbished Michelin Building, Bibendum was an instant success, so much so, that Sir Terence asked Joel to join him at his development in Butler’s Wharf to open a restaurant.
Before the restaurant could be developed, Butler’s Wharf itself fell victim to the recession of the early ‘90s. Whilst carrying on negotiations with the receivers, Kissin began looking around for another project. The one that caught his eye was the former ballroom of the old Quaglino's restaurant on Bury Street, St James’s.
Having worked out a deal with the Butler’s Wharf receivers that mirrored the original agreement, Kissin then finalised the purchase of the long leasehold interest in Quaglino’s, along with the name. |
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| Wrath - What makes you angry about the hospitality industry?
No shows - which I know is an issue for many restaurants in London. It doesn’t take a minute to call or email to cancel a booking, or to simply hit cancel on your restaurant app - but many diners still don’t let us know if they can’t make it, which means we have to turn away other diners and walk-ins. Some people confirm on the day and still don’t show up!
Greed - If all your food fantasies came true what would be on your Plate?
I’m incredibly fortunate in that I’ve experienced most of my food fantasies! I’ve been in the restaurant business for 43 years, on and off, and have seen and tasted a lot – although I would never say I’ve experienced it all. I tend to like simple, classic, unfussy food. Risotto Milanese with white truffles is high up on my list of favourites.
Sloth - What do you do to unwind?
Read a book - often about food. Marcel Boulestin, who inspired the name and philosophy of our restaurant, was a brilliant writer whose books I turn to, not just for research, but also for pleasure. I’ve just finished Caroline Conran’s Sud de France about the food and recipes of the Languedoc, which features some of the best food writing I’ve enjoyed in a long time. And reading my daughter her bedtime story is the highlight of my day.
Pride - What are you most proud of?
I’m very proud of my involvement in helping to change London’s restaurant industry, when I worked with Sir Terence Conran. We were among the first to really bring design to restaurants and we tried to think of all the details that come together to make a restaurant work. There are restaurants today that are still influenced by what we did. And of course, I’m incredibly proud of my current restaurant, Boulestin. I’m proud of the fact that my team has brought many dishes back to the London restaurant scene – dishes that have not been available for many years. I’m proud of our relaxed Café and convivial restaurant formula; proud that the critics are raving about us – but most importantly, proud that we’ve built up a loyal and regular customer base that love and value what we offer.
Lust - Is there anything that you are still lusting to achieve?
I can’t wait until summertime when we can unveil the secret gem that is our Courtyard, in all its glory. I’m lusting after a great British summer, so I can reveal what we have in store!
Envy - who are you most envious of?
Probably Corbin and King. They are great restaurateurs who have launched exciting restaurants with great energy. I also admire Nick Jones for his achievements.
Gluttony - have you ever over indulged?
It would be hard to spend as long as I have in the restaurant business and not experience the occasional bout of over-indulgence, but it’s been a while! In the 1970s I had a friend who had the best wine cellar in London. We would drink 1952 Krug, a 1950s Le Montrachet, 1920s Bordeaux and a 19th-century d’Yquem. All accompanied by wonderful food by his private chef, Simon Hopkinson (who I then worked with at Hilaire and Bibendum). I’m not a big drinker now, and wasn’t then either, but faced with those wines and that food, how could one hold back?
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| We put the spotlight on the industry's most recognisable faces in our new interview segment "Seven Sins". If you want to know what inspires the industry's movers and shakers or what your favourite food loving celebrity likes to indulge in then you'll find it in their Seven Sins. |
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