Inside the beautiful Fairmont Hotel nestles and absolute gem of a restaurant, the Haerlin. Boasting not one but two Michelin stars, the room was completely remodelled in 2013, and the décor alone is worth the visit. Warm organic sand tones couple with mahogany and gold leaf and hand painted silk wall covering - the effect is restrained and breath-taking all at the same time.
In one corner is the rare onyx sommelier’s table, where wine devotees can sample some of the 600 rare wines on display. The kitchen features a Chef’s table, where up to eight guests can dine, served by Chef Christoph Ruffer himself - book well in advance for this amazing experience.
We opted for the tasting menu, and I must apologise, because I am going to run out of superlatives as I describe the feast for both palette and of course, the eye.
“Astonishing food served in exquisite surroundings - perfection.”
So to begin, we had a glass of dry pink champagne. Introductory morsels were prawns with a spruce sauce, these had an amazing slightly pine aroma - sounds terrible, tastes marvellous. These were accompanied by duck liver cereal with passion fruit, the perfumed fruit lifting and sweetening the duck and grains, and celery yogurt with nut butter.
This was followed by golden trout with cockles, iced dill and horseradish. I loved this dish intensely, cockles are such an underrated food, and the sweetness of the fish and shellfish was perfectly accompanied by the liquorice of the dill and the heat of the horseradish. To drink, a sophisticated 2013 Werzburger Abtsleite.
Onwards to Goose liver with cherry flavour, young beetroot and smoked eel. I have met with the goose liver and smoked eel combination before, yet the richness and slight fattiness of the two meats has never been so perfectly accompanied with the earthy sweetness of young beetroot and the tartness of cherry, in the form of an air. In a nod to its Spanish tapas inspiration, this dish was accompanied most fittingly with a nutty and dry Pale Cream Oloroso sherry.
The fish theme continued with a delightful crab tartar, with cream of tarragon, lettuce and crayfish with Sauternes. Again, the balance was faultless, the lettuce on its own was, spectacularly flavoured! We drank an Austrian wine new to us, 2008 Asia Cuvee, Mayer Am Pfarrplatz - perfectly chosen for the light flavours of the crab and crayfish.
St Pierre fish (which I believe is Nile Perch) was up next, a white, firm and well flavoured offering, accompanied with green beans rapeseed oil and pistachio. The rape seed oil is an unusual choice, but its slightly mustardy notes worked well with this rather heartily flavoured offering. This dish was accompanied by a bone dry Riesling, Chatteau St Michelle.
Braised mangold sent me flying to the dictionary - were we going to eat mangle wurzle? Actually, it’s chard, and very elegant and flavourful it was, accompanied with ceps, an emulsion of red onion and olive vinaigrette. To drink, a glass of that old fashioned delight, Tokay.
At this stage we were in a kind of stupor of gastronomic joy. Before each course, a little mini menu card is brought to the table, and just when you think that really, nothing else can tempt you, and food coma is setting in, along comes the next excitement for the tastebuds.
Saddle of lamb with carrots, cream of chick pes and Moroccan lemon gave more than a passing salute to Middle Eastern cuisine, and this was the stand out dish for me, being a big fan of lamb. To drink, a robust 2010 Aloxe-Corton Latour, sublime.
Finally, the strangest dish of the night. “Summer night” - flambeed cauliflower, strawberries, black vanilla and coriander. I’m not sure I will be serving this at home any time soon, but, it was much, much nicer than it sounds.
Amazing food, more than impeccable service, lovely lakeside views, and a beautiful room - one of the finest hotel restaurants in the world lives up to its Michelin two star billing, and more.
The Bill: £98 per head
